The tudors tv series.

http://globalseriestv.wdfiles.com/local--files/the-tudors/tv_the_tudors37.jpg

For example in this picture. It is known for the tudors to wear their hair loose to symbolism virginity but  am spotting some Kim k style curls in this images. 

Kim Kardashian Signature curls. 

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sFKQ2KMjh40/maxresdefault.jpg

Another thing that bothers me about this image is the clothing of the lady in the far left. In that era she would basically be considered naked with that cropped busier on and arms fully showing. That costume so dangerously close to what is considered fashion today. Pleated skirts and crop tops are really popular right now (displayed below) 

http://fashionbomb.thefashionbomb.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Laura-Govans-Instagram-Balmain-Crop-Top-BCBG-Skirt-and-Christian-Louboutin-Pumps.png

Mac's heirloom collection

Image source- 0http://www.allurabeauty.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/MAC-Heirloom-Mix-Collection-Promo-2.jpg

I recently visited Mac in West Quay shopping centre. The first thing I noticed was one of their new fall collections. Heirloom mix. Which is inspired by family heirlooms. This collection features , brush kits , eye shadow palettes and a new range of lip products! Why am I mentioning this? Well it clearly isn't a picture of an Elizabethan but I feel the make up for the campaign definitely had Elizabeth aspects! Just look at the light eyebrows , pale foundation, bright pink blusher on the apples of the cheeks and the berry coloured lips ! Even the hair you could say has Elizabethan hints with the crimping all though I think it resembles more of the French Revolution !

Second practise of my design

This is the second practice of my design. I generally cannot fault Cornelia's make up skills and ability to copy my demonstrations and photographs i have gave her. She made my eyebrows slightly bigger than in my design but when the look was finished i realized i actually really liked them like that. 

At the end i felt that i needed something gold on the lips so i added some supra gold to the inners of my lips.

Make up assessment- Cornelia's design

This is Cornelia's design that i created in my make up assessment. I feel that it came out pretty well although the lips could of been more symmetrical

I think the base looks brilliant here, we did this by using Illamasqua white base foundation and mixing it with the kryolan foundation in FD38 A foundation shade darker than Cornelia's normal complexion.After we powdered with the Illamasqua translucent powder. Eyebrows and eyelashes were simply Kryolan supra white painted on with an angle brush. I find using an angle brush to add white to the lashes gives more coverage and control, you can manipulate the eyelashes to go in the direction you want with an angle brush. Blush was kryolan blush pallette in TO. 

Lipstick was kryolan lipstick pallette in LC007. 

. We did encounter some problems along the way. Cornelia doesn't own the standard make up kit required so when she handed me her face chart she was unsure about what make-up to use. After we both decided what would work well with her design it came to blocking the eyebrows out. Although we practiced plenty i clearly hadn't got the knack of it quite yet and didn't feel confident in doing it. We decided after practicing that we would use white eye brows instead. 

I feel that me and Cornelia communicated really well and demonstrated her ideas with ease. 

First practise of my design

practising for assessment.

Today I tried cornelias design. I like her design because it is simple but effective ,the lips are contemporary.

Putting on her base. She asked for a white base but still near skin colour. 

White eyelashes. I found this quite differcult to do as I'm not used to applying mascara to someone else's eyelashes. 

Finished look without covering of eyebrows as she wanted to see what it looked like with out. I found the lips difficult to get even but with plenty of practice I will be able to perfect it. After a few practices i found that starting with the bottom look first helps me to even it out. 

Rosy colour over soap method. 

The supra colours did not work well with the soap due to it being oil based. 

Off white foundation on glue method. Glue definitely worked well with her eyebrows. 

Finished look with soap on right and glue on left 

After a discussion we both decided the blocked brows was too time consuming and wasn't what she wanted anymore so we decided to colour the eyebrows in white instead.
I feel very confident to do Cornelia's look in the assessment after our practices.

Tudor cosmetics

Make-up and Cosmetics in the tudor times were seen to symbolise your wealth and rank in society.
Heavy make-up were not very popular during the reign of henry the VIII. Queen Elizabeth was the Trendsetter, as she got older the more heavy her make-up became due to her contraction of small pox and wrinkles.
The ideal tudor women during elizabeths reign was a woman with light hair, pale skin and rosy lips and cheeks. The paler the skin the more wealthy and noble you were ,as only poor workers caught a tan during labouring.


pale skin- The white make-up used for the face was ceruse, made from vinegar and white lead which was actually poisonous.

yellow hair- yellow hair dye was made from a solution of celadine, oil, saffron and cummin seed.
Wigs were also very popular and queen Elizabeth was know to own many.

The Rosy lips and cheeks were simply a show of status.

High foreheads were also seen as a sign of beauty so women would shave their hair lines and shave there eyebrows to make the forehead appear bigger.

This is my example of an elizabethan look

Who are the new Elizabethans?

The Artist Who Caused A Divide. (in opinions) 

Who are the new Elizabethans in the modern world? To me a new Elizabethan would need to of influenced Britain and create a particular persona.

Banksy is a well known British artist who uses modern methods of painting (graffiti) to display his humor and controversial statements in Britain. Banksy's art has changed peoples views on graffiti being an art form. His art has definitely rocked the boat world wide with peoples opinions being so divided. Banksy's work completely fascinates me and i love the fact he keeps his identity a secret, making his whole approach to art one big show. Even those who do not follow art at all will recognize his artwork and will have some sort of idea of why he did it. Unlike queen Elizabeth the 1st Banksy cannot control his image to the public as in the 21st century everyone voices their opinions more than in the 15th century, Social media being the main culprit. What I like about Banksy is that he voices his OWN opinion.  An opinion in which he shares with the lower class British people. Unlike some artists/politicians/celebrities who are paid to show a certain persona or voice a certain opinion. 

My favorite piece is the kissing coppers based on a pub wall in Brighton. I Think the two men kissing displays the gay community in Brighton and the police symbolizes enforcement. Showing that It is now Excepted to be gay. 

Kissing coppers- banksy 

The Prince Albert Pub

2004 

 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-26254509

Example of opinions -
 http://www.thelocal.se/20140321/banksy-you-are-not-welcome-here-stockholm-sweden-mural-politics-graffiti-art

Consultations

Before applying any make up to a model you will need to do a consultation to look for contraindications.

Skin- you should be looking at what type of skin your client has , as some products will not work with certain skin types. example- Using a oil based foundation on oily skin will cause the make up to slide off.

• dry skin
• oily skin
• combination 
• blemishes 
• scaring
• cuts
• open sores
• skin complaints

Hair- Figure out what type of hair your client has. certain hair types may not work with your design. Dry damaged  hair may not work as well with a design using excessive heat. 

• cuts or grazes
• head lice
• hair damage
• condition of hair
• medication clients may use
• infectious disease

Blog feed back

Today I had a meeting with Kat for a review on my blog.
She said that she is glad to see that i am engaging with the project.
My visual research supports my design process however i need to be more reflective on my work and focus on historical and contemporary research and say why i have provided those images and how they support my work. I also have been told to present work and practise from outside of sessions. including face charts, make up experimentation's and techniques developing. I need to research beyond units expectations and reflect on my designing process.
Sharon also said to us to include Harvard referencing which is what i will be doing from now on.

Blocking out the eyebrows

Finding ways to block out the eyebrows without shaving them off is important when trying to recreate and Elizabethan look. Unlike bette davis not all actresses would like there eyebrows shaved to give an authentic Elizabeth. 

These methods were originally created by drag queens when trying to create a higher brow.

Sue taught us two ways.

Soap-
I find soap to be the easier way to block out eyebrows. I think it apply's easier and smoother compared to glue.

1. prepare a bowl with warm water and place soap into it for a few minutes. make sure model's face is clean and no products in eyebrows.
2. brush out models eyebrows in direction needed and begin applying soap using a spatula. smooth soap on against the hairs first to apply soap to the bottom of the hairs then smooth over in the direction the hair lays. use fingers applying pressure in a smoothing motion to make sure hairs lay completely flat.
3. Apply as much soap as needed until hairs are completely flat.
4. with a wet cotton bud , remove any excess soap around the brow.

Glue-
I found glue more difficult as you have very limited time before the glue starts to dry.

1. take a small amount of glue and warm on the back of your hand.
2, like with soap; using a spatula smooth against then with the hairs to cover all sides of the hair.
3. with glue you need to work quickly, i find if its not smooth enough you can use a cotton bud with warm water to slightly soften the glue and make it workable again.
apply as much glue needed until hair is completely flat.
4.with wet cotton bud remove any excess glue around brow

Base- I find applying the base is the same with both methods
white base-  with a white base all you need to do is apply lightly with a sponge. before this i usually power the blocked brow to mattify as i find it easier to cover up that way.

skin coloured base- before using your foundation of choice, apply a rose colour to the eyebrows the mask the darkness of the brows. In class we usually mix a bit of the supra colour red and white. next i would set with some translucent powder. After that i would apply base coat with a sponge. lightly pressing over eyebrows to prevent ruining the blocking process

FINAL DESIGN

Today I described to change my design slightly. I felt like it didn't stand out enough and was way too simple. I kept the idea of white eyelashes , berry lips and flawless base. I decided to extend the eyeshadow outwards up to my eyebrows and have a distinct gold line under each eyebrow. I didn't want the eyeshadow to be one block colour so I used mac mineralized skin finish in global glow which is a more bronze colour but I think it compliments the gold. I tried the look with eyebrows this time and felt that a normal brown brow would'nt work as well. To achieve this look I used my own foundation , concealer , powder and skin finish and the supra pallette to achieve this look.

Lighter lips version . Decided to go with dark lips as I felt the colour didn't go well with the gold. 

Trying my look with liner using the supra colour mixture that I used for the lips. 

I do like the idea of matching my liner and lips but I wanted to keep the look as simple as possible (like Elizabethans) but with vibrant colours. 

My next step would be  to write detailed instructions for my partner to follow 

Final design- First draft.

For my final design i have decided to combine popular cosmetic trends from elizabethan times and from present. I started by observing current trends, Because i am the model i have considered my skin tone very carefully. Looking at this years make-up and clothing trend the two styles that stood out to me were berry coloured lips and Metallic clothing. With my skin tone, berry coloured lips work very well no matter what shade but personally i prefer the darker shades.In the elizabethan era berry lips were also popular but were applied i a stained like manor, what makes this modern is the perfect lip line and the amount of lipstick applied.

 Metallic shades have really stood out to me clothing wise and i noticed a lot of shows this year featured metallic eyes. I find that gold works well with my skin tone and eye colour (Brown)
I think gold ties in with elizabethans as it could show wealth and riches.

With the base i have decided to go for a flawless finish. Originally in elizabethan times their faces would be a pale white. Realistically if i was living in elizabethan times , due to my Caucasian/ afro Caribbean skin tone i would imagine that i would be paler but not white. which i wanted to show in my design. I'm going to play around with a few foundations and i am thinking about mixing the Illamasqua skin base 01 with my Illamasqua skin base 12. When it comes to eyebrows i am really intrigued with the idea of no eyebrows so i've decided to cover them up with this look

DESIGN INFLUENCES

Saint Laurent by Hedi
Slimane.


 http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/wp/wp-content/uploads/metallic.jpg

Show- Matthew Williamson
make up- Lisa Eldridge

http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g3344/hair-makeup-trends-autumn-winter-2014/?slide=22

Show- Tory Burch

Make up- Diane kendall 

http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g3344/hair-makeup-trends-autumn-winter-2014/?slide=40

No eyebrows- http://www.lxedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/elizabethan-
eyebrows.jpg

berry lips - https://theperfumemistress.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/elizabethan-ceruse.jpg

I showed my design to kat today and she thinks that i need to make it stand out alot more. 

Second practise at blocking out eyebrows

This time i used glue to block out the
eyebrows! I Found it easier this time round but felt a bit under pressure due to time. I am quite pleased with my results considering my models eyebrows are VERY thick but i can definitely do better with a bit more practise.

Contemporary elizabethan images

I feel that this image is Elizabethan as it displays the pale skin, absence of eyebrows and the colouring of cheeks and lips. At the same time it is contemporary  with the use of white paint in the hair and around the face.

I love this look because its very fresh faced, like Elizabeth is portrayed. The pale skin, red hair and rosy lips and cheek give a very Elizabethan look.

This image collage reminds me of Elizabethans souly because of the ruffles used although some of the images display a pale face. A beautifully contemporary way to use ruffles in fashion.  




























Again this image is Elizabethan due to the ruffles used in the clothing. also the long sleeves and tightness of the top half in contrast with the exaggerated waist (due to the skirt) gives a very 16th century look. I also notice that although the face is a normal skin colour , the eyebrows have been blocked out which compliments the entire look.

 I feel this image is exactly what Elizabeth herself would look like if she lived in the modern couture world. The red hair and frizzing screams Elizabeth although the style is messy and backcombed like the 21st century. The face is perfectly pale, lips and cheeks rosy like Elizabeth but the eyebrows although light are still displayed in the picture which gives a contemporary feel.

These are  images i found on pinterest that inspire me!

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/368591550724663850/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/41236152811040154/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/445786063089079317/

 http://www.pinterest.com/pin/262968065717105419/

Erdem spring/summer 2015 hair and make-up test. Vogue.com

Reading vogue.com today i came across this article.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/02/erdem-spring-2015---the-evolution-of-a-beauty-look

The looks were created by val garland and her make-up team. 

The blocked out eyebrows ,pale skin and rosy cheeks are a clear indication of Elizabethan and by the looks of it will be featured in s/s15 !! talk about new elizabethan!

 

All images and credit to link above

Elizabethan traditional make up- how to block out eyebrows

In sues lesson we learned how to block out eyebrows two different ways 

With soap and with glue. With both methods you need to use a spactula smoothing the product on against the hairs then smoothing it down so the hairs will stick down at the bottom. You would need a few layers and make sure it's dry before powdering and applying foundation.

Above is soap 

This is glue. 

This is my elizabethan look. I feel that I needed a few more layers to cover the eyebrows and I found it very difficult to blend the illamasqua foundation. Next time I think I will use supra colour as its grease and will blend a lot better. Cheeks are good but the lipstick is too 'lipsticky' for that time period. Overall I feel I could do better next time now I have practised.

Face charts- contemporary elizabethans

These are a couple of fave charts that I did in class. With this design I played around with the idea of clowns. I feel that elizabethan make up and clowns are quite similar with white pale faces and ruffles. I played around with purple and berry shades as they are quite popular when its winter. 

With this one I tried something different with my design. I used pink around the eyes which is something I never usually do. 

My halloween costume!

This year as I didn't have a lot of money I decided to improvise! Last year I really got into prosthetics and taught myself a few things via YouTube. Using my basic knowledge I designed this look on a Wim. I am very pleased with the look I produced. I thought I would go for a 'murdered' woman with bruises on my collar bone chest and face.