Tudor cosmetics

Make-up and Cosmetics in the tudor times were seen to symbolise your wealth and rank in society.
Heavy make-up were not very popular during the reign of henry the VIII. Queen Elizabeth was the Trendsetter, as she got older the more heavy her make-up became due to her contraction of small pox and wrinkles.
The ideal tudor women during elizabeths reign was a woman with light hair, pale skin and rosy lips and cheeks. The paler the skin the more wealthy and noble you were ,as only poor workers caught a tan during labouring.


pale skin- The white make-up used for the face was ceruse, made from vinegar and white lead which was actually poisonous.

yellow hair- yellow hair dye was made from a solution of celadine, oil, saffron and cummin seed.
Wigs were also very popular and queen Elizabeth was know to own many.

The Rosy lips and cheeks were simply a show of status.

High foreheads were also seen as a sign of beauty so women would shave their hair lines and shave there eyebrows to make the forehead appear bigger.

This is my example of an elizabethan look

Who are the new Elizabethans?

The Artist Who Caused A Divide. (in opinions) 

Who are the new Elizabethans in the modern world? To me a new Elizabethan would need to of influenced Britain and create a particular persona.

Banksy is a well known British artist who uses modern methods of painting (graffiti) to display his humor and controversial statements in Britain. Banksy's art has changed peoples views on graffiti being an art form. His art has definitely rocked the boat world wide with peoples opinions being so divided. Banksy's work completely fascinates me and i love the fact he keeps his identity a secret, making his whole approach to art one big show. Even those who do not follow art at all will recognize his artwork and will have some sort of idea of why he did it. Unlike queen Elizabeth the 1st Banksy cannot control his image to the public as in the 21st century everyone voices their opinions more than in the 15th century, Social media being the main culprit. What I like about Banksy is that he voices his OWN opinion.  An opinion in which he shares with the lower class British people. Unlike some artists/politicians/celebrities who are paid to show a certain persona or voice a certain opinion. 

My favorite piece is the kissing coppers based on a pub wall in Brighton. I Think the two men kissing displays the gay community in Brighton and the police symbolizes enforcement. Showing that It is now Excepted to be gay. 

Kissing coppers- banksy 

The Prince Albert Pub

2004 

 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-26254509

Example of opinions -
 http://www.thelocal.se/20140321/banksy-you-are-not-welcome-here-stockholm-sweden-mural-politics-graffiti-art

Consultations

Before applying any make up to a model you will need to do a consultation to look for contraindications.

Skin- you should be looking at what type of skin your client has , as some products will not work with certain skin types. example- Using a oil based foundation on oily skin will cause the make up to slide off.

• dry skin
• oily skin
• combination 
• blemishes 
• scaring
• cuts
• open sores
• skin complaints

Hair- Figure out what type of hair your client has. certain hair types may not work with your design. Dry damaged  hair may not work as well with a design using excessive heat. 

• cuts or grazes
• head lice
• hair damage
• condition of hair
• medication clients may use
• infectious disease

Blog feed back

Today I had a meeting with Kat for a review on my blog.
She said that she is glad to see that i am engaging with the project.
My visual research supports my design process however i need to be more reflective on my work and focus on historical and contemporary research and say why i have provided those images and how they support my work. I also have been told to present work and practise from outside of sessions. including face charts, make up experimentation's and techniques developing. I need to research beyond units expectations and reflect on my designing process.
Sharon also said to us to include Harvard referencing which is what i will be doing from now on.

Blocking out the eyebrows

Finding ways to block out the eyebrows without shaving them off is important when trying to recreate and Elizabethan look. Unlike bette davis not all actresses would like there eyebrows shaved to give an authentic Elizabeth. 

These methods were originally created by drag queens when trying to create a higher brow.

Sue taught us two ways.

Soap-
I find soap to be the easier way to block out eyebrows. I think it apply's easier and smoother compared to glue.

1. prepare a bowl with warm water and place soap into it for a few minutes. make sure model's face is clean and no products in eyebrows.
2. brush out models eyebrows in direction needed and begin applying soap using a spatula. smooth soap on against the hairs first to apply soap to the bottom of the hairs then smooth over in the direction the hair lays. use fingers applying pressure in a smoothing motion to make sure hairs lay completely flat.
3. Apply as much soap as needed until hairs are completely flat.
4. with a wet cotton bud , remove any excess soap around the brow.

Glue-
I found glue more difficult as you have very limited time before the glue starts to dry.

1. take a small amount of glue and warm on the back of your hand.
2, like with soap; using a spatula smooth against then with the hairs to cover all sides of the hair.
3. with glue you need to work quickly, i find if its not smooth enough you can use a cotton bud with warm water to slightly soften the glue and make it workable again.
apply as much glue needed until hair is completely flat.
4.with wet cotton bud remove any excess glue around brow

Base- I find applying the base is the same with both methods
white base-  with a white base all you need to do is apply lightly with a sponge. before this i usually power the blocked brow to mattify as i find it easier to cover up that way.

skin coloured base- before using your foundation of choice, apply a rose colour to the eyebrows the mask the darkness of the brows. In class we usually mix a bit of the supra colour red and white. next i would set with some translucent powder. After that i would apply base coat with a sponge. lightly pressing over eyebrows to prevent ruining the blocking process

FINAL DESIGN

Today I described to change my design slightly. I felt like it didn't stand out enough and was way too simple. I kept the idea of white eyelashes , berry lips and flawless base. I decided to extend the eyeshadow outwards up to my eyebrows and have a distinct gold line under each eyebrow. I didn't want the eyeshadow to be one block colour so I used mac mineralized skin finish in global glow which is a more bronze colour but I think it compliments the gold. I tried the look with eyebrows this time and felt that a normal brown brow would'nt work as well. To achieve this look I used my own foundation , concealer , powder and skin finish and the supra pallette to achieve this look.

Lighter lips version . Decided to go with dark lips as I felt the colour didn't go well with the gold. 

Trying my look with liner using the supra colour mixture that I used for the lips. 

I do like the idea of matching my liner and lips but I wanted to keep the look as simple as possible (like Elizabethans) but with vibrant colours. 

My next step would be  to write detailed instructions for my partner to follow 

Final design- First draft.

For my final design i have decided to combine popular cosmetic trends from elizabethan times and from present. I started by observing current trends, Because i am the model i have considered my skin tone very carefully. Looking at this years make-up and clothing trend the two styles that stood out to me were berry coloured lips and Metallic clothing. With my skin tone, berry coloured lips work very well no matter what shade but personally i prefer the darker shades.In the elizabethan era berry lips were also popular but were applied i a stained like manor, what makes this modern is the perfect lip line and the amount of lipstick applied.

 Metallic shades have really stood out to me clothing wise and i noticed a lot of shows this year featured metallic eyes. I find that gold works well with my skin tone and eye colour (Brown)
I think gold ties in with elizabethans as it could show wealth and riches.

With the base i have decided to go for a flawless finish. Originally in elizabethan times their faces would be a pale white. Realistically if i was living in elizabethan times , due to my Caucasian/ afro Caribbean skin tone i would imagine that i would be paler but not white. which i wanted to show in my design. I'm going to play around with a few foundations and i am thinking about mixing the Illamasqua skin base 01 with my Illamasqua skin base 12. When it comes to eyebrows i am really intrigued with the idea of no eyebrows so i've decided to cover them up with this look

DESIGN INFLUENCES

Saint Laurent by Hedi
Slimane.


 http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/wp/wp-content/uploads/metallic.jpg

Show- Matthew Williamson
make up- Lisa Eldridge

http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g3344/hair-makeup-trends-autumn-winter-2014/?slide=22

Show- Tory Burch

Make up- Diane kendall 

http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g3344/hair-makeup-trends-autumn-winter-2014/?slide=40

No eyebrows- http://www.lxedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/elizabethan-
eyebrows.jpg

berry lips - https://theperfumemistress.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/elizabethan-ceruse.jpg

I showed my design to kat today and she thinks that i need to make it stand out alot more.